We are back from Antarctica. And the first thing we do? go to internet cafe! we are so hooked on internet! :)

Going from Argentina to Antarctica, passing the Drake was an inevitable part. the boat ride was SO rough. Drake Passage is the sea that separates south American continent and Antarctica peninsula. It´s one of the most capricious sea in the world. The weather can change in a finger flip. I now understand why those bookstores in Ushuaia sells postcards that says nothing but ¨Survivor from the Drake!¨, should have taken the warning! For two days we were basically lying on our beds sliding up and down (when not throwing up in the toilet), most of the time i had to grab firmly onto the edge of the bed so the sudden swell won´t throw me off. Going to toilet was a serious matter too, you just have to wait for that short break between huge swells to do your business. Our belongings are thrown everywhere. it´s like experiencing a 7.0 earthquake only that it´s nonstop for 48 hours.

It´s as if you have to pay the toll and endure the pain to reach the most amazing place on the planet! Antarctica really blew me away, it´s so beautiful and so surreal. It´s like walking into the national geographic channel, with giant birds flying around, penguins waddling up to you, whales and seals showing off their fins and tails around you, and of course icebergs and icebergs. Every one of them is different. They are nature´s sculpture and i can´t get tired of looking at them (only get cold :)). I was really blown away by the scenery and serenity, and the power of nature.

Antarctica is also the best classroom for wildlife! Who could imagine i can now distinguish between six different types of penguin in a second? They are everywhere and they are the cutest creature! I can just sit there and watch them waddling around for hours. Some of them would slide down an icy slope, struggle to brake and maintain balance, some of them would use their little mouth to move rocks to make nests, some of them just simply waddle around and fall on their stomach (that´s the cutest.. ), they are short but they could be fast and they definitely know where to pick an easy route and when to jump through cracks. :) You might not win a race up a rocky hill against them :) they are just so dutifully breeding and feeding to provide a safe harbor for their chicks so they can swim off before winters arrive. As our guide pointed out some of the little ones won´t make it because they were born too late in the season, i felt really really sorry....

Antarctica has really unpredictable weather. They say if someone says the weather is good, ask them in ten minutes. We had some good days and some bad days. On a good day we see cloudless sky, sun lit icebergs, endless snow capped mountains. On a bad day we hide under our parkas and would only stick our heads out when someone shouting ¨whales! 10 o´clock!¨ or ¨leopard seal! behind you¨!, especially on a zodiac. Zodiac cruising is really the best way to explore the wildlife and to appreciate the icebergs up close. We are usually put in a zodiac of 10 people, so everyone gets his chance of close shot or the picture of a lifetime! There are surprises everywhere as the zodiac winds through icebergs. We had seals playing with us and just won´t leave. He seemed enjoying the attention and had fun having us guessing when and where he´s going to stick his head above water again. We chased whales in an Antarctic blizzard. My fingers were numb holding the camera but all this was not to miss the very moment when it jumps out or shows its tail.

And our very thoughtful staff always have hot drinks waiting for us on board. After such adrenaline pumping, we usually hang out in the bar in late afternoon and rave about how amazing the trip has been - but of course no alcohol for me because I do not want to pass out on whales. The only time I had a shot of vodka i fell on the slippery ramp as soon as i walked out, although I insist it´s a coincidence. :) it did leave a cup size bruise on my knees. yikes!

So i had that famous shot of vodka in Vernadsky, an Ukrainian scientific base and it happened to be the southernmost point of our trip. The very hospitable base staff gave us a tour of the station and skillfully ended the tour in the bar! They have a rule that says you get a free shot of vodka if you donate your bra! And the bar is decorated with all kinds of bra, and in all sizes. There´s a giant one that´s gotta be a double Z. I did get my free shot, but NOT through bra donation! (hey i am a backpacker, my clothes will have to last for a couple more months, can´t just throw them away for booze! ). We were the last ones who left the bar, one our way out we were stopped by the staff. In half russian and half English, i kinda understand it´s their tradition that the last one leaving has to drink with them. :) and i know the chances of trying to get out of drinking with a Russian? slimmer than spotting a whale on the sea!

We had an incident on the way back. One of the engine on the ship broke down. After trying to repair it overnight without success, the crew had to slow down the ship to keep it safe. So we were delayed for a few days. But luckily the other engine did not fail on us and we had a really really calm Drake on the way back. All this is to say that the expedition staff handled the situation really well, there´s not a moment that we felt our safety is in question. We had many lectures, documentaries, open bar happy hours to keep us entertained. All the expenses and travel plan changes will be reimbursed. We are even offered to stay on the ship after disembarkation, which we will. :) They are all extremely experienced, knowledgeable, and friendly ( i promise i did not take any commission!). It made the journey not only a sightseeing, but also a great educational experience. Many staff has done scientific work in Antarctic, one is even the cousin of the the great explorer Sr. Ernest Shackleton, andone has his pictures published in national geographic magazine. The ship also has a library that has abundant collection of polar related books.

It was just an incredible trip. And I´ll travel again with them to other polar region in a heart beat, but will need some time to save money! A trip to Antarctica with Quark Expedition will set you back $4000-8000, depending on the length, ship and cabin. They also have expeditions to arctic. A Russian vessel equipped with nuclear powered ice breaker will take you all the way to north pole from Russia in 5 days. Other ice breaker offers different routes in Greenland, Russia or Canada.

the last but not the least, happy Chinese new year to everyone! I´ve been really craving for Chinese food. One day the chef on board had sticky rice on the menu for lunch, i almost burst out tears. Okay guys, eat more for me and i wish you all a good start in the year of pig!